Mucky Duck - a Captiva Classic?

Looking at this picture of Andy Rosse Lane reminds me of two things -

Jungle Drums Gallery - a place were I've spent many happy hours browsing and rather a lot on money over the years. And

The Mucky Duck - a long established Captiva restaurant. Places like Bellini's have gone and Timmy's Nook was torn down to become the Green Flash, and Chadwick's and Momma Rosa's are both gone forever. Many more have come and gone, but the Duck and its funky competitor, the Bubble Room, have been there since I started visiting the island over 20 years ago. The short drive down Andy Rosse to the Duck just feels like I'm coming home.

But things change - even the Mucky Duck. It's a little wistful and a little melancholy watching a favorite struggle, and make no mistake, the Duck does struggle at times - with its identity and trying to keep a quality operation. Good food needs skill in the kitchen and service needs to stay friendly. No easy task when you're so far away from where your employees can afford to live, and all your food suppliers sit. All we see as customers is what is in front of us - and sometimes it's not good.

While the fried grouper sandwich seems to be as good as ever, as do a few other simple dishes. I miss the Caribbean Pork Loin at dinner - I thought it one of their best offerings, there are some less happy choices - like their shrimp dishes and even the signature 'Duck Fingers'. A lot of the menu wasn't ever great eating and it's still hit or miss. But the location - well, there just isn't anyplace better for that! There's something about the Duck. It isn't the food, which has never risen to greatness, or the staff, which varies with alarming frequency - but somehow the Duck has always struck me as kind of the essence of Captiva.

The Mucky Duck sits in an old beach house with windows that look out to the Gulf. No attempt has every been made to enlarge it. Maybe they can't thanks to the building codes, and that works for me! They don't serve frozen drinks with little umbrellas or chic little hor'dourves du jour. No California Yuppie chow. The buttons that adorn the rafters stay put and get added to thanks to customers. Tables and chairs are old - out of a 1950's Sears catalog. They use the same rolling window and gag cup they did years ago. Pure 50's corn. No customers are dressed to impress because nobody cares.

Outside it's plain picnic tables and a ring toss game. In the evenings, a little entertainment with Buffet style music. And the Gulf. And the beach. And the sunset. That is why we've come here. That's what Captiva is about.

Foodies aren't chatting about the California roll or sashimi or tapas or THE best double espresso soy milk caramel latte while nibbling fresh biscotti. It's beer, wine, iced tea and lemonade in plastic glasses. The menu changes and maybe it has a shot at 'trendy' but it never sticks. Folks like the fried grouper sandwich and burgers and fish and chips and meatloaf and fried chicken. But I wouldn't complain if they put the Caribbean pork loin back on the menu. Maybe Food & Wine magazine won't be beating a path to their door - does anyone really care? Do I wish the food was a little better? Well, yes. But not at the expense of the atmosphere, which I value more highly than yet another version of pasta with pink vodka sauce and broccolini.

Let the foodies and fashionistas invade the Hampton's and the Vineyard. Bring on the folks who treasure the old beach cottages enough to restore them rather than tear them down and build yet another generic McMansion or Mizner style drone. The Mucky Duck seems to capture Captiva precisely because it's focused outward to the Gulf - not inward toward glamorous food and patrons. That's the real secret of its appeal. Now, if they would just improve the shrimp dishes and bring that pork loin!