Island Shopping

How can a vacation be a vacation without shopping? Buying something to remind you of your trips is not only traditional, but it's FUN! Even if it's just a few postcards, or tee shirts or a hat, it's amazing how many folks will speak with you and say, "I've been there!" I have a weakness for tee shirts, a fairly recent habit of mine. It's not unusual to see me wandering around with the names of various places I've visited plastered across my chest and back.

Like most beach resort locations, businesses come and go with alarming frequency. Dependent on vacationers, many were unable to survive the drought after Hurricane Charley hit in 2004. Some of the best hung in there and have become the anchor for the rebuilding of Sanibel's shopping scene.

On the islands my favorite shops include the following:

Pandora's Box - Located front and center in Periwinkle Place, this shop carries a wide and eclectic range of goods, from quirky hand painted one of a kind furniture to unique jewelry items and collectors glass. Much of the stock is expensive, but they have switch plates, note cards, pillows, even antique costume jewelry and Christmas ornaments for those on a tighter budget. There really is a little something for everyone and this crowded shop packs a lot in to its little space. Not a good place for small children. Too many breakable items around and not a lot of space for customers.

Island Style - Also in Periwinkle Place it's near Pandora's Box and also has funky stuff for sale. They have different furniture here, some interesting glassware and amusing ceramics. All tongue in cheek, this is just a fun place that doesn't take itself seriously.

Chico's - The very first store of the Chico's chain started on Sanibel Island and they still have a big store at Periwinkle Place. There are a number of other good clothing options there as well, so anyone looking for summery cottons will be in seventh heaven. Like Pandora's Box, be really careful with kids around all the many breakable item.

Congress Jewelers - A big shop with high end goods. They have some island style charms, bracelets, pendents and rings - with or without gemstones. They specialize in designer styles. Not for those on a budget.

Cedar Chest Fine Jewelry - In Tahitian Gardens, this is my one of my personal favorite jewelry stores. They offer some one of a kind designs using carved semi-precious stones and gold with cut gemstones that are unique, if pricey, reminders of the islands. They also offer select designers and a very nice selection of custom designs that are uniquely Sanibel. Nice folks.

Sanibel has lots of of really nice jewelry shops and nearly all of them offer custom designs in silver and/or gold based on beach themes and shells. One exception is William E Wilson in the Village Shops. When I want to drool over world class, custom cut gemstones done in one of a kind pieces, this is the place. A small shop filled with treasures for those with good taste who appreciate the unusual and have Platinum cards.

Tee shirts - Well, you can find these pretty much everywhere. The little shop in Periwinkle Place in the corner across from the entrance to the Blue Giraffe has high quality ones and where I like to buy. Windspree, a stand alone shop with Finnimore's Bike Rentals is a good spot.

Sea Shells and supplies - She Sells Sea Shells is a must stop. Neptune's Treasure's is GREAT, but kind of hidden in a little group of shops in Tree Tops near where the Causeway joins Periwinkle. Tuttles is down on the east end of Sanibel in Old Town Sanibel. You can find shells, containers for shells, shell art - everything shell in many shops. Most are aimed at tourists, but a few are for serious collectors. Go and learn!

Art Galleries - Sanibel and Captiva have played host to artists and writers for many years. Anne Morrow Lindberg wrote "Gifts From the Sea" while staying in a little cottage on Captiva. Robert Rauschenberg calls the islands home. Lots of excellent professional and amateur artists show their work. As always, buy what you like. BIG Arts Center has shows on a rotating schedules. Jungle Drums on Captiva offers a wide price range and mediums, numbered limited editions and prints as well as glass, and jewelry. Tower Gallery is an island collective. Art of the First Person in the Village Shops has primitives from around the world.

I'll add more later, but hopefully, you'll find a reason to explore the wonderful little shops on Sanibel and Captiva and maybe bring home a reminder of your stay. I think my place is littlered with them and they always bring a smile.

What is it about Sanibel and Captiva....?

...that makes it so special?

When we came first to Sanibel years ago, we were immediately entranced with the uniqueness we found. Our whole family sensed it and within nine months we trekked down from the northeast again to have a second helping. We come now at least once a year.

Our first impression of the specialness was that it was the canopy of trees that lined the main streets and much of the island- the wispy Australian Pines everywhere. Yes, we read that they were invasive and not native to Sanibel, but nonetheless we assumed it was the shady canopy that gave Sanibel its unique charm, its essence.

And then Charley came and huffed and puffed and blew it all(-most all) down. I came back that year bracing for the worst. And yet, I found Sanibel. The spirit, the essential core was still there. The canopy was gone, but the charm was intact. Sanibel was sunnier, brighter but while different, none of us felt like the loss was a critical loss. So I guess the canopy was not the unique, um, whatever it is about Sanibel.

Then I supposed it was the beaches. Natural, shell-filled, wild. Naturally clean. Not scraped sterile. Certainly this was the essence. And when we came in February, we saw beaches struggling with the aftermath of mainland run-off or perhaps the late effects of Charley- Seaweed. Covering thin and sometimes thick expanses of beach.

And yet, we walked those beaches. Found the shells. Savored the pelicans and occasional dolphin. The week went by quickly as always and again, as always- there was Sanibel. So even if the beach was less than clear, the essence of the island withstood it.

So I don't know. What IS it that makes these islands so easy to fall in love with?

Mucky Duck - a Captiva Classic?

Looking at this picture of Andy Rosse Lane reminds me of two things -

Jungle Drums Gallery - a place were I've spent many happy hours browsing and rather a lot on money over the years. And

The Mucky Duck - a long established Captiva restaurant. Places like Bellini's have gone and Timmy's Nook was torn down to become the Green Flash, and Chadwick's and Momma Rosa's are both gone forever. Many more have come and gone, but the Duck and its funky competitor, the Bubble Room, have been there since I started visiting the island over 20 years ago. The short drive down Andy Rosse to the Duck just feels like I'm coming home.

But things change - even the Mucky Duck. It's a little wistful and a little melancholy watching a favorite struggle, and make no mistake, the Duck does struggle at times - with its identity and trying to keep a quality operation. Good food needs skill in the kitchen and service needs to stay friendly. No easy task when you're so far away from where your employees can afford to live, and all your food suppliers sit. All we see as customers is what is in front of us - and sometimes it's not good.

While the fried grouper sandwich seems to be as good as ever, as do a few other simple dishes. I miss the Caribbean Pork Loin at dinner - I thought it one of their best offerings, there are some less happy choices - like their shrimp dishes and even the signature 'Duck Fingers'. A lot of the menu wasn't ever great eating and it's still hit or miss. But the location - well, there just isn't anyplace better for that! There's something about the Duck. It isn't the food, which has never risen to greatness, or the staff, which varies with alarming frequency - but somehow the Duck has always struck me as kind of the essence of Captiva.

The Mucky Duck sits in an old beach house with windows that look out to the Gulf. No attempt has every been made to enlarge it. Maybe they can't thanks to the building codes, and that works for me! They don't serve frozen drinks with little umbrellas or chic little hor'dourves du jour. No California Yuppie chow. The buttons that adorn the rafters stay put and get added to thanks to customers. Tables and chairs are old - out of a 1950's Sears catalog. They use the same rolling window and gag cup they did years ago. Pure 50's corn. No customers are dressed to impress because nobody cares.

Outside it's plain picnic tables and a ring toss game. In the evenings, a little entertainment with Buffet style music. And the Gulf. And the beach. And the sunset. That is why we've come here. That's what Captiva is about.

Foodies aren't chatting about the California roll or sashimi or tapas or THE best double espresso soy milk caramel latte while nibbling fresh biscotti. It's beer, wine, iced tea and lemonade in plastic glasses. The menu changes and maybe it has a shot at 'trendy' but it never sticks. Folks like the fried grouper sandwich and burgers and fish and chips and meatloaf and fried chicken. But I wouldn't complain if they put the Caribbean pork loin back on the menu. Maybe Food & Wine magazine won't be beating a path to their door - does anyone really care? Do I wish the food was a little better? Well, yes. But not at the expense of the atmosphere, which I value more highly than yet another version of pasta with pink vodka sauce and broccolini.

Let the foodies and fashionistas invade the Hampton's and the Vineyard. Bring on the folks who treasure the old beach cottages enough to restore them rather than tear them down and build yet another generic McMansion or Mizner style drone. The Mucky Duck seems to capture Captiva precisely because it's focused outward to the Gulf - not inward toward glamorous food and patrons. That's the real secret of its appeal. Now, if they would just improve the shrimp dishes and bring that pork loin!

Doc Ford's and Garlic Cheese Bread

How is it that when we plan a vacation we always look forward to food? Not only do I live in an area filled with really good restaurants, I travel often and eat out frequently in many cities. While neither Sanibel nor Captiva could ever be considered a gourmet paradise, there are just somethings that are not to be missed.

Top of my list is the Fish Tacos at Doc Ford's. I've watched this location kill off any number of restaurants over the years. Up until Doc Ford's moved in I never even stopped. Naturally, I like Randy Wayne White's books - well most of them anyway - and seeing the name of his protagonist on a restaurant was tempting. But there are a lot of celebrity restaurants around, from the TriBeca Grill to chains like Planet Hollywood and Margaritaville. A few are excellent. Most, even those owned by celebrity chefs, leave me wondering what all the fuss is about. Then there's the little unpretentious places like this. Randy Wayne White is not exactly DeNiro, but Sanibel isn't Manhattan either. LOL This place just suits the island and fills a void in the food chain for both locals and visitors.

I haven't really had a chance to explore the menu, something I really must do this fall, after getting a fish taco fix. About the only thing I've tried and was unimpressed with is the Doc's Beach Bread. I mentioned this on both the BOSC and Trip Advisor forums and took a fair amount of flack from those who love it. What can I say. To each their own, but I did take the time to write out my own recipe for Garlic Cheese Bread. So I figure I'd include it below. It goes great with grilled steaks or chicken.

Now, while we contemplate the desert menu - you should ALWAYS check out the deserts first, that way you'll know how much room to save - I thought I'd take votes on Doc Ford's favorite dishes.

Tourmaline's Garlic Cheese Bread - with variations

Get an excellent quality crusty bread with a dense and chewy interior. Breads baked in wood ovens and artisan breads are excellent for this as are many sourdough breads. The garlic part won’t work with seeded loaves. Take several cloves of garlic and split them lengthwise in half. Now rub the crust of the bread with the garlic until it is completely covered and shiny from the garlic juice. Depending on the size of the loaf, this can take a number of cloves. The bottom of the loaf takes a lot of garlic!

Now lightly brush the crust with extra virgin olive oil.

Grate Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino romano, extra sharp 2 year old white cheddar and OPTIONAL: asiago, fresh mozzarella –which is REALLY tough to grate, so consider using a mandolin, very coarse grater or even slicing and julienne the slices - please DO NOT buy the pre-grated stuff. You can vary the ratios to suit your tastes, but I use mostly white cheddar [30-50%] and then equal parts romano and Parmigiano and smaller parts of the asiago and mozz. [I like mine rather sharp and with a bite to it so I often use only the Parmigiano , romano and white cheddar.]

It’s not that hard to grate these cheeses yourself and the flavor difference is really noticeable, so buy really good cheese and do it yourself as you need it. Using you fingers mix the cheeses together with a little dried marjoram, black pepper, and OPTIONAL: a tiny amount of hot paprika (I buy Hungarian) (or a high quality ancho chili powder and good hot red pepper)

You now have two ways to go.

1. Split the bread in half lengthwise. Spray a double over heavy duty foil ‘pan’ – dull side up and shiny side folded in – or a really heavy cookie sheet, with Pam or equivalent.

Put the bread on the sheet crust down and mound the cheese onto cut side till it about 1-1.5” thick. There’s a fair amount of air in grated cheese. You can sprinkle a little extra virgin olive oil on the top or dot lightly with sweet butter. Don’t worry about what spills over onto the pan. It will be an excellent lacy crust of cheese. Bake at 350F for about 20-30 minutes till the cheese is melted and browning. Less if you like it gooey. Eat with fresh salsa, bruschetta, or even a really good pasta sauce. A small plate of olives and mixed sliced Italian dried sausage or salamis.

2. This works best with the baguette style breads to a moderate width, but not wide bread. Take the loaf that’s covered in garlic juice and slice top to bottom – stopping short of cutting cleanly thru. Make the pieces about 1.5” thick but not more than 2”. Now cut strips of UNSALTED butter and slip them between the slices. This will cause the bread to make a bow, so cut the loaf in half if it’s a long one. Now take your mixed cheeses and push as much as you can between each slice. [If I’m serving this with pasta I put a little Greek oregano in the cheese mix when I add the marjoram] mound more grated cheese all along the top. Thinly slice garlic and lay the slices on the top of the cheese and place very thin slices of sweet butter on top of the garlic. Bake at 350 till the cheese is browned on top and the bread crunchy. You can pick off the garlic slices if you like, or eat the.

Believe it or not, this bread is not offensively garlicky, but man, I never, ever have any left.

Grouper

Whenever I think of Sanibel I think of shells and beaches and grouper - fried, grilled, blackened - well grouper. OK, I think of cake too, but I ALWAYS think of cake! So who has the best grouper? Well, many folks have never met a beer they didn't like, and I feel much the same about grouper. I'm don't go for fancy sauces that drown the taste of the fish, so I do prefer the simpler preparations.

Grandma Dot's does a good job and the fried grouper sandwich at the Mucky Duck is always on my menu. It doesn't hurt that Grandma Dot's also has a deep dish Key Lime Pie that I buy whole and take back to my rental for periodic attacks through my stay - or that the Mucky Duck has an ice cream brownie sundae [raspberry and chocolate topping for me] that I have a minor addiction to. Doc Ford's had Fish Tacos made with grouper and served with really good black beans and rice.............. OK, they have a good desert too. Carrot cake with a touch of 151 rum. I think there's a pattern emerging here.

Grouper. I'll take votes on the best grouper on Sanibel or Captiva.

Red drift algae and other pests

It seems that Sanibel Island and Ft Myers Beach are the most impacted by red drift algae. There's a good informational Insider Page on Trip Advisor about the subject, but in brief this is it:

A combination of nutrients and water activity allow the sudden explosive growth of a family of red drift algae. The common denominator is their seaweedy like appearance. Color varies, but all are pests and alter the natural habitat forcing out 'good' sea grass and other plants. The algae can't anchor well and is ripped off the floor of the Gulf and then floats to the surface where it tangles with other algae forming rafts or mats, which are occasionally huge and thick. These mats can float off shore and develop quite an odor as they rot. They also wash up onto the beaches and overnight an entire beach can be covered with the stuff - a few inches or over 18 inches! In a vicious circle, the rotting algae releases nutrients back into the water that then supports the next crop of algae. The cycle can only be broken by removing the algae. The City of Sanibel is exploring options, but like any endeavour it has both supporters and detractors. Personally, I think if something isn't done soon Sanibel's reputation will suffer to the point where even it's most loyal supporters and long time visitors will be unwilling to risk their vacations to algae covered beaches.

Red drift algae is a hazard to boaters and wildlife as well. The thick mats fouls propellers, drives away fish, and causes problems for birds. This past winter, visitors, local fishermen and even the head of Ding Darling noted the changes in bird population and availability of 'feeder' fish, like mullet. The estuaries along the mangrove coasts are hugely important to the long term health of our oceans. They are the nurseries for fish and the feeding grounds on which the whole chain of sea life, and many birds are dependent. Toxic blue-green algae, red drift algae and many other factors have caused so much damage to the environment that head of Ding Darling puts recovery 6 or more years, if no more out breaks occur!

Unlike Red Tide, the source of the problem with red drift algae and blur-green algae is pretty much pinpointed to the dumping of the nutrient filled water out of Lake Okeechobee into the rivers that empty into the sounds. The excess fresh water also changes the salinity of the bays and other areas. The other factor is runoff of water from farmland, golf courses and even homes.

I highly recommend people who care about the unique environment of estuaries in the area should visit http://www.sanibelh2omatters.com/ - a website created and maintained by the City of Sanibel dedicated to water quality issues.

For some photos I took in March showing both fresh and old deposits of red drift algae, see:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/tourmaline-sanibel

Welcome To Sanibel Captiva Perspectives

This blog was created in response to the deterioration of the quality of information on several sites, including Trip Advisor and Best of Sanibel Captiva. The second is an honest business that exists to support on island business subscribers for whom they supply promotional services and advertising. It does not purport to be unbiased or independent. As a member of their forum I have stopped posting due to the persistent pattern of deletion of any criticism of any aspect of Sanibel and Captiva Islands, most significantly any island business that is not delivering value for guests and visitors. Trip Advisor is a large and useful site that I have contributed to for years. At this time I am a Local Expert for Sanibel and Captiva. How much longer I will stick with it I can't say. The Sanibel Forum has been taken over by a group of people with business interests on the islands, notably members of SCVRMA - an association of rental agents that handle condo and house rentals on the island. Others provide services to on island businesses, including The Sanibel-Captiva Chamber of Commerce. They have hopelessly compromised the integrity of the forum and the Sanibel and Captiva information in general. In order to provide essentially commercial free information on two I islands that I have come to know and love, I have started this blog. I will be inviting a handful of members to join me. They are long time visitors to the islands and offer a wealth of information about things to see and do and places to stay - and most importantly, places to avoid because the business is not up to snuff. I have no financial interest in Sanibel or Captiva. I am purely a visitor. This site will not have any advertising and I will not allow promotion of businesses. It will have honest opinions, mostly mine. You may not agree and that's fine with me. The blog is mine and it's content is informational and editorial. I hope you enjoy wandering thru the posts and can gain some useful information from Sanibel Captiva Perspectives!